This picture was taken 10-27-2003 in Malibu, California as I race to make a section on this fun wave!
Click here to see pictures of me with my favorite boards.
I am not an exceptionally coordinated or athletic person. I do love the water, I am a fairly strong swimmer, and I am persistent. With those few qualities almost anyone can learn to surf. It also helps to have a longboard and a nice slow break.
After a few years of living on the water front in San Diego in the late 1980's, I realized it was inexcusable for me to not try and learn to surf. So I dusted off an old Zuma Jay surfboard which my folks purchased years prior, and took my beatings. I don't remember those few weeks of trying to stand. But I clearly remember that first clean ride on the face of a knee high wave. One ride and I was hooked. . . a surfer for life.
No question about it, riding waves is a rush. However, there is more to surfing than those few seconds of the ride. Surfers come in all shapes and sizes. Some like the big wave double overhead, bone crushing, ride or drown rush. I hang out on the other side of the spectrum. I'm a waist to head high, long board, make a few turns, soul surfer.
Surfing connects me with nature, and helps cleanse my spirit. Being immersed in the ocean, waiting for the right wave is quality time, whether it is with friends or alone. When dolphins make their magical appearances it only enhances the moment.
| Most surfers ride their waves and once they exit the water only memories remain of the session. While that is usually true for me too, I am stoked to have some good pictures of myself surfing. I owe that to one of my friends, Andy Cooper, who is a professional photographer as well as being an accomplished surfer himself. On a number of occasions he has set me up with a CD of shots he snapped while I was in the water. He took the picture at the top of this page and the shots and video in the links below. |
| Click here to see a video clip of me surfing waist high waves in August 2002 on an 11'0" board in Malibu. |
| Click here to see some photo sequences of me surfing September 16th 2005 during one of the best south swells of the season. |
| Click here to see a photo sequence of me surfing in October 2003. |
A great web site for finding your local tide information is Tidelinesonline.com
Click here for Southern California's Swell direction model by Scrips. Excellent for indications on surf size!